Diving the Zenobia Wreck in Cyprus

Cyprus is the third-largest island in the Mediterranean, with a Greek Cypriot south that draws most visitors and a Turkish Cypriot north known for its casinos. Less than an hour’s flight from Israel, it reveals a beautiful side of the Mediterranean, above and below the surface.

Cyprus knows how to make you feel on holiday. Sheltered bays, green peaks, picturesque villages and long stretches of beach make the island feel made for visitors. In summer, it fills with Europeans, particularly Britons, a reminder of its long period under British rule. By September and October, the pace slows. Temperatures drop, occasional light rain clears the air, and the island feels fresh and peaceful. For us, it was the perfect time to pack a bag and visit our neighbours.

With a history stretching back 10,000 years, Cyprus carries the influence of the many peoples who passed through it: the British, Greeks, Romans, Arabs and others. As a major trading hub for the merchant ships of the ancient eastern Mediterranean, the island absorbed ideas and traditions from across the region.

This account describes our trip and the services available at the time. We planned it just a week before leaving and headed to Larnaca for a short stay. The goal was clear: dive the Zenobia, a popular wreck dive off Larnaca. More on the wreck shortly; it lies about 10 minutes by boat from Larnaca.

While we were planning the trip, Shmuel Gold, a representative of Viking Divers in Larnaca, helped us find a hotel and put together a diving package that suited us.

‘Wait for me at the airport,’ he said. To our surprise, a jeep from the dive centre was there to take us straight to our hotel in the city centre. It was our first taste of Cypriot hospitality: people going out of their way to make us feel welcome.

Diving filled most of our days, but afternoons and evenings took us to the promenade near our hotel. Along the waterfront, smart hotels sit beside restaurants, cafes and pubs. We could choose between excellent seafood restaurants and tavernas, where small plates of meze and lively music turn dinner into an evening.

An imposing stone fort stands in the middle of the promenade. Later used as a prison under British rule, it now offers fine sea views and houses a small archaeological museum. For church lovers, Larnaca’s ninth-century Church of Saint Lazarus is an impressive stop.

Running parallel to the promenade, Zenon Kitieos is lined with designer shops, souvenir stores and colourful markets. International fashion brands share the street with local lace, woodwork and pottery. This is a city to explore on foot and let sink in. Its calm streets, with far less traffic and noise than we were used to in Israel, feel particularly inviting in the mild autumn weather.

On Friday evening, we visited the local Chabad House to welcome Shabbat. We had not booked ahead, though it is worth doing, but received a warm welcome, a good dinner and a comforting taste of Jewish tradition.

Cyprus has long, peaceful beaches, dazzling blue water and a seemingly endless sea breeze. Like many Mediterranean islands, it offers plenty of diving: sea caves once used by pirates, rocky reefs surrounded by fish and, of course, the Zenobia.

Ask divers around the world where they would like to go next, and the Zenobia is likely to feature on plenty of wish lists.

The Swedish-built ferry sank off Larnaca on June 7, 1980, during its maiden voyage. Problems with its stabilizing system caused it to list before it sank.

 

The Zenobia settled on its side on the Mediterranean seabed with 108 trucks aboard. Cyprus’s tourism authority reports that the cargo was valued at 200 million pounds at the time.

The wreck became a popular dive site.

The huge ferry, 172 meters long, rests on its side on the seabed at 42 metres. Its upper side lies at about 18 metres. Inside are dozens of lorries still loaded with cargo. The sea has embraced the ship, covering it in algae, sponges and corals.
Local dive boats provide access to the wreck.

 

The wreck is far too large to explore in a single dive, or even a day’s diving. Talk to the dive leaders before you arrive and plan to visit a different section each time. Several introductory dives around the exterior, taking in the bow and huge propellers, help put its scale into perspective.

Entering the wreck requires training, equipment, gas reserves, and a plan appropriate to an overhead environment. A local guide’s knowledge does not replace those requirements. Entering the ship means moving through enclosed spaces in complete darkness. Torchlight picks out lorries covered in sponges, corridors running at strange angles and large fish sheltering in the silence. With the ship lying on its side, it is easy to become disoriented. The whole scene is extraordinary.

 

Choose a route that fits your training and experience. Divers without suitable wreck-penetration training should remain outside the ship.

For your next diving holiday, consider Cyprus: a nearby island with beautiful beaches, welcoming hosts, memorable food and an extraordinary wreck beneath the waves.